Map, Journey and Costs

Note: prices are for 2 adults with baggage

0

0d 0 hrs

£0.00

0km

0

0d 0 hrs

£0.00

0km

0

0d 0hrs

£0.00

0km

0

0d 0hrs

£0.00

0km

From	To	Mode	Duration	Cost
🇵🇪 Mancora	🇪🇨 Guayaquil Bus Station	Coach	08:30	£54.66
🇪🇨 Guayaquil Bus Station	🇪🇨 José Joaquín de Olmedo Airport	Taxi	00:11	£3.90
🇪🇨 José Joaquín de Olmedo Airport	🇪🇨 Seymour Baltra Galapagos Airport	Plane	01:39	£292.90
🇪🇨 Seymour Baltra Galapagos Airport	🇪🇨 Baltra Crossing Point	Coach	00:08	£7.80
🇪🇨 Baltra Crossing Point	🇪🇨 Santa Cruz Ferry Terminal	Ferry	00:02	£1.56
🇪🇨 Santa Cruz Ferry Terminal	🇪🇨 Puerto Ayora	Coach	00:34	£7.80
🇪🇨 Puerto Ayora	🇪🇨 Isabella	Ferry	02:00	£46.81
🇪🇨 Isabella	🇪🇨 Puerto Ayora	Ferry	02:00	£46.81
🇪🇨 Santa Cruz	🇪🇨 San Cristobal	Ferry	02:00	£46.81

Next up was a destination often avoided by backpackers on a budget, the Galápagos Islands. Cruises around the islands are very popular, and come with a formidable price tag. We’re talking around £1500 per person with lots of luck and haggling. We’re not in a position to justify that. We stuck to budget hostels, with kitchens, and to booking a few day trips. It’s an expensive destination even then, so money angst was very much a thing whilst we were there.

But so were some super cool animals and experiences we’ll forever cherish. Here’s what we got up to!

We spent a good few days relaxing around Mancora, in northern Peru, after our big hike. The Galápagos Islands are off the coast of Ecuador. To visit we had to catch a coach to Guayaquil, a city in mainland Ecuador, and then fly over to the islands.

We hunkered down on our nightbus to Guayaquil. The bus pulled over an hour or so after departing, and a policeman boarded. “Documentos”, he bellowed. We’re very used to producing our passports for no reason (I got ID’ed buying cheese the other day. It wasn’t even that potent).

Alas, having more cheese wouldn’t be the outcome of this encounter. After one look at our passports, the policeman beckoned. “Come with me”. In my best broken Spanish I asked whether Laura should too. He said no.

He led me to a room in a small police station. Two more cops were waiting. They didn’t look too happy, and handed over a phone on which they’d written “You have no stamp in your passport. You are in Peru illegally” on Google Translate.

Luckily I sometimes listen to Laura. I remembered her saying on arrival at Lima airport that it was electronic. We didn’t need a stamp in our passports.

A few minutes of me massacring the Spanish language followed. They were adamant I was there illegally. Then they revealed the crux of the issue:

“¿Tienes dinero?”

Or, “do you have money?”. Balls. They were corrupt. I said I didn’t understand and attempted again to explain in my best Spanish why I’m exempt from needing a stamp.

I’m pretty sure the frustrated coach driver saved my bacon. A more senior looking cop came in and shouted something. They showed me a Google Translate screen saying “Sorry for the misunderstanding. Enjoy the rest of your journey”.

The Galápagos Islands have super strict biological controls. We had to pay for a scan of our luggage before boarding the plane, to prove we weren’t carrying any food items. On arrival, sniffer dogs did their job before they allowed luggage collection:

We felt very sorry for him having to sniff our laundry. Luckily he stayed professional, and didn’t react to our socks.

It was a pleasant surprise that Charles Darwin still greets everybody upon arrival:

You can see scores of wildlife whilst walking around the towns. The iguanas freaked Laura out a bit:

Sealions hung out everywhere. Even well into town, next to the fish market:

We did a series of snorkel trips to meet lots more wildlife.

We somewhat unsuccessfully tried to do a bit of freebie snorkeling by Tortuga Bay. Visibility was pretty poor.

But we did see lots of marine iguanas, which are endemic to the Galápagos:

Our first full-day snorkel trip was around Pinzon Island. A highlight was a cheeky sealion. He loved swimming right in your face:

He also enjoyed trolling sharks, their natural predator. Whilst the sharks were having a nap, he would dive down and bite their tails:

Here are some more sharks:

And a cool turtle:

We were very close to seeing a manta ray (which was prime position on Laura’s wishlist). Alas, part of our group did see one, but didn’t tell anybody else until we were back in the boat. Laura is still not happy about this.

A shorter trip was to Las Grietas. It’s accessible from a 20 second boat trip, costing $1. (A bridge is a much needed investment).

It’s a canyon which boasts a lot of mangroves. It has super clear (and cold!) water. We had a dip:

We reached Isabella from Santa Cruz via speedboat 🚤. It’s a super cool island because not only is it home to many seahorses, it also looks like one:

Kinda.

First on the agenda was to hire some bikes and ride through a protected habitat for tortoises. We got up close to some, and took a few snaps:

I seemed to be a poor spotter, and cycled past most of the tortoises. But worked it out a few minutes later when Laura wasn’t following.

We saw some endangered species:

We also entered the tortoise sanctuary, which is a more tightly controlled area. They’re trying to get tortoises to do it. They then provide a safe environment for the hatchlings to grow up. Rats and dogs are a big risk to hatchlings, so it is very well fenced off.

They seem to be quite successful. A couple of centenarian tortoises were getting it on by the entrance as we arrived:

And they’ve released more than 3000 tortoises into the wild, with little GPS trackers added to their legs.

Some fun tortoise facts:

• Like many in my Computer Science class, they reach sexual maturity at the age of 35. And they keep on going until the grand age of 120 (the tortoises, that is). They’re not fussy during those 85 years. Any male and female will happily breed.
• They incubate their eggs underground for 160 days.
• The temperature determines the sex of the resulting hatchling.

Here are a few snaps:

And their logo, featuring two mating tortoises:

My favourite day-tour was Los Tuneles.

On the way out, we saw lots manta rays jumping out of the water. (They were trying to clean themselves). Laura wanted to jump in with them, but wasn’t allowed.

On the first stop we saw lots of penguins and pelicans. We went for a paddle with the penguins:

Next up was a meeting with the iconic bird of the Galápagos. The blue footed booby (he he).

We got quite close, and he stood proudly like an exhibit whilst the guide told us some facts:

• The bluer their feet, the better they are at fishing for sardines.
• For this reason, very blue feet are a big turn on for blue footed boobies.
• They used to be endemic - only found in - the Galápagos. They’re now just native - originally found in - the Galápagos.
• They’re called boobies because they walk funny, and kind of stupidly sit there if you approach.

Other wildlife included a huge eagle ray:

A few turtles:

Some sea horses:

And some voyages into shark’s lairs:

A bit unnerving at first. One by one the guide pushed and held our heads under the water, and into the shark’s lair. The sharks looked unimpressed and sinister.

Last stop, and another speedboat away, was San Cristobal.

We found lots of sealions chilling on the beach. A scientist was doing a study of them, she said the results are all looking positive 💪.

Finally, the big ticket item was the 360 tour. So called because you go all the way around San Cristobal. After a few hours haggling down the price, we committed to a tour and crossed all fingers and toes for a manta ray.

Alas, we weren’t lucky enough to see a manta. But here are some turtles and some other kind of ray:

We also saw a hammerhead shark 😱. It was huge. But we have no footage as he was in a rush.

The main exhibition was Kicker Rock:

The Galápagos Islands were amazing to visit. The quantity, diversity and accessibility of wildlife was incredible. And Laura definitely got her snorkelling fix. It was the final place we’ll go snorkeling this year.

Our budget provided constant angst throughout our time there. High prices and surcharges were a perfect storm. We didn’t overshoot too much. But, would love to go back some time in the future when we’re able to flash some more dollar.

Next up, we head back to Peru again and start coach tripping our way down the country. See you next time!